Issues with 2nd Gen B16A Automatic to 91 CRX DX Automatic
  • Clearances:
    • Malletized on driver side shock tower to clear alternator.
    • Malletized firewall cross beam next to motor mount to clear banjo bolt on transmission.
    • Malletized area required on front cross beam at tranmission interference.
    • Right radius rod to front cross beam interference problem.
  • Cutout(actual photo) required passenger side to clear transmission.
    • This transmission is much larger than the old dx automatic.
    • I cut an additional inch, photo, from the forward side next to the front cross beam.
  • Driver's side engine bracket must be replaced.
    • B16A1 bracket (sample photo) is required.
    • B16A2 bracket (sample photo) will not work.
      The B16A2 bracket is offset and the angle between the pins is wrong.
  • Firewall motor/tranny torque bracket will not work.
    The EG9 bracket (pictured on the right) completely misses the aftermarket motor mount offset toward driver's side.
    The 92-95 USDM civic vtec bracket (pictured on the left) has a solid insert and the hole spacings are wrong.
    Both brackets set the engine too far from the firewall by approx. 2 inches.
    I bought the 50827-SK7-020(sample photo) from Acura.
    The lowest bolt hole requires redrilling. The second lowest bolt holes requires reaming to a larger size.
  • Passenger side custom motor mount required.
    I used the EG9 civic bracket and the EG9 mount with aftermarket inserts. Shown here tack welded in place.
    In retrospect, it would be better to keep the factory mount and modify an aftermarket transmission mount.
  • Wiring harness conversion - OBD0 to OBD1.
    • PM5 AUTO ECU wiring - OBD0, some colors are different.
    • P30 AUTO ECU wiring - OBD1, note differences.
      A20, Red EVAPS missing (no function) and D18, A/T Shift Lock Control missing (no function)
    • The JDM passenger side bundle was removed almost intact. One or two wires to splice. The JDM driver side bundle was severed behind the fuse panel at a double set of connectors and installed on the passenger side.
    • Installed both connector mount brackets on the passenger side (5 connectors, 1 dead head) so that the engine may be removed without much fuss.
    • The DX electrical system is left intact and splice into only as necessary.
    • The wiring interface for the interlock system has changed. I used the EG9 Interlock Control Unit. The CRX wire, white with a red stripe, splices into the brake switch line. The rest of the colors are the same.
  • JDM EG9 Knuckles
    • The JDM EG9 Sedan knuckles are same as 94 Integra GSR. One knuckle is defective, the bearing shell has spun. DX knuckles will not work with the EG9 axles.
  • 5G Radiator and Condensor Combo
    • While it seemed like a good idea at the time (and it still might be do-able? width is a big problem) it is too labor intensive and I'm giving it up. I still hate the stupid CRX radiator/condensor combo where the waste heat from the condensor passes through the radiator. It is grossly inefficient, not to mention that pathetic little fan on the A/C side. The B16A doesn't generate as much heat as the old engine. Drove all winter without the radiator fans running.
  • Knock Sensor Problem
    • This knock sensor is fragile and very expensive. The plastic cap will separate from the metal base with very little encouragement. I did this while trying to remove the wiring harness connector. It may be possible to repair it by soldering the wire back on and gluing the cap back on with JB weld or something similar. I bought a new one.
  • Fuel Pump Problem
    • The EG9 fuel pump fixture is oriented rear to front. The CRX fuel pump fixture is oriented left to right. They are not interchangeable. I removed the pump from the EG9 fixture and installed it on the CRX fixture. Some soldering required.
  • Battery Location
    • What to do with the battery? (I may move it to the cargo compartment.)
  • Right radius rod CRX(Bottom)&Accord DX Rod
    1. Cut, extended and welded CRX rod failed almost immediately.(No pictures - Too Ugly!)
    2. Customize bent a longer Accord DX rod with torched bends and torch cut forward hole. 1st View 2nd View
    3. Rod broke after 8 months at rough torch cut forward hole attachment to lower control arm.
    4. Machine shop filled and redrilled rear attachment hole on new Accord DX Rod.
    5. I torch bent and chilled the Accord DX rod taking special care to ensure that the rod ends were concentric and in alignment and that all bends were in the vertical plane. Rod broke after 18 months.
    6. Full penetration weld done to repair the rod. Rod broke in about a month.
    7. Found a beefy Accord EX rod in the JunkYard. Plugged and redrilled rear attachment hole to CRX spacing. Turned down threaded end to CRX length and rethreaded. (Maybe this is "The Silver Bullet!") Finished rod.
  • Del Sol Power Windows
    • The Del Sol power/regulator has a different foot print than the CRX. A template must be made and holes drilled. Longer bolts are required. Only two of the threaded mounting holes are easily aligned within the contours of the door. A third mounting hole was made by drilling a new hole in the power/regulator frame.
    • The window support rail and thrust rail must be swapped from the CRX regulator to the power/regulator assembly. If you reverse the thrust rail by accident, you will bend and break things that are not easily repaired.
    • The switches are installed in the two square holes in the armrest on either side of the handbrake. Driver's side is plug down and passenger's side is plug up. Get creative with the hot knife and the dremel tool for a nicer appearance.
    • Use a Honda "H" Emblem to cover the hole where the handle use to be.
    • On the DX the power roof socket on the back side of the power distribution panel does not have a plug in it. A plug can be scrounged from the junkyard with the necessary large gauge wire (Red/White) and used for the power windows and power mirrors. Install a thirty(30) amp fuse in position Six(6). This can then be spliced for two(2) twenty(20) amp fuses (one for each window) and one 7.5 amp fuse for the power folding mirrors below.
  • JDM Power Folding Mirrors
    • The JDM mirrors are reversed for right-hand drive in Japan.
      Use a heat gun to remove the mirror from each JDM unit and replace with the USDM mirrors.
    • The control head can be mounted in the small pocket space to the left of the steering column. Get creative with the hot knife and the dremel tool for a nicer appearance.
    • On the DX the power roof socket on the back side of the power distribution panel does not have a plug in it. A plug can be scrounged from the junkyard with the necessary large gauge wire (Red/White) and used for the power windows and power folding mirrors. Install a thirty(30) amp fuse in position Six(6). This can then be spliced for two(2) twenty(20) amp fuses (one for each window above) and one 7.5 amp fuse for the power folding mirrors.
  • Vibration, Rattles, Noise
    • Something that the manual transmission cars probably experience a whole lot less of.... The Hard Motor mounts transmit an objectionable amount of vibration into the dash. The whole damn thing shakes. I think that some added braces and thick foam insulation in the right places will help some of this.
    • Too much exhaust noise. Replaced the resonator for some improvement.
    • Still too much exhaust noise. Replaced the magnaflow with a dynamax for some more improvement.
    • Still way too much exhaust noise.